Winter Wonders: Nuremberg

On Day 3, we ventured out to Nuremberg, a little city north of Munich with a long history extending back to the middle ages but is probably most famous for its role in the Holocaust, both as the place for the Nazi Party Rally Grounds (including Nuremberg rallies and the anti-Semitic Nuremberg Laws) and subsequently as the site of the famous Nuremberg trails. This is the documentation centre or dokumentationszentrum (Reichsparteitagsgelande). Yeah, quite a mouthful but fortunately the tourist centre was very helpful and tram no.9 takes you directly from the station to the centre. We travelled on the Bavaria ticket (brilliant little thing, more on this in another post)

The one thing you have to admire about the German's is the way they deal with their somewhat less-than-stellar past. They even have a word for it, and of course, its a long one. Its 'vergangenheitsbewaltigung' which is actually two words in one. Vergangenheit means the past whereas Berwaltigung means coming to terms with or mastering. In short it means the struggle to come to terms with an undesirable past mostly in terms of the Holocaust. Do they hide it? Try and forget it? Embrace it? 

Remember that quote at the bottom of all our sejarah books? "Those who forget the past are condemned to repeat it." - Geroge Santayana. Well, I think the German's believe in that and they try and educate their children about the past rather than hide from it or put a spin on it like some countries *coughcough* so that they understand it and know how to keep it from happening again. And their memorials are done very... tastefully. Like the bronze cobblestones on Shirker's Alley - there's no plaque, no explanation but you can easily find out what it is online. Its a memorial as silent and subtle as those who walked those streets in rebellion. 

Our guide also pointed out things like how sometimes you will see 3 holes in the wall where the Nazi swastikas had been removed but the holes left as a reminder, or how you would see a large ledge that makes you think "Something should be there." and something was there once, a large Nazi eagle. And she mentioned how a lot of old Nazi buildings were converted into Nazi spaces and apartments and she lives in one of them. And just above her door, if you look up, you can see a Nazi eagle. But people don't look up at doorways too often so its there but its not in your face. And I think we have to admire the germans for their vergangenheitsberwaltigung.

Anyway, perhaps we shall move onwards. More pictures, less talking. The Nuremberg Imperial castle which offers fine views of the city.

And now, some lovely Christmas market snapshots. Nuremberg has one of the prettiest ones in the world.

Its set in the main square, the Hauptmarkt, which offers a fantastic backdrop with its cathedrals and this; The Beautiful Fountain which is surrounded by the Nuremberg Ring. You're supposed to rub it for good luck but because of all the stalls we couldn't reach it. Oh well, no luck for me then.

And all the stalls are such a delight: traditional sweets.

Lebkuchen - a German gingerbread cookie.

Marzipan with a twist. Look at the far right corner, you can see bratwurst marzipan and potato marzipan!

Gorgeous handmade ornaments making me wish I had my very own Christmas tree.

And you have to give the German's credit for their love of alcohol - at any time of the year. This is not uncommon, large temporary stalls with fireplaces inside where you can enjoy mulled wine or hot punch. They're basically portable bars.

Here we are enjoying a lovely warm mug of mulled wine. And yes, I bought the boot-shaped mug. And once again, cheers!